Malta’s Blue Lagoon : heaven or hell ?
Malta’s Blue Lagoon is, as its name suggests, a white sand lagoon with incredible turquoise water. It sits on the tiny island of Comino, which is halfway between Malta and its little sister, Gozo.
The Blue Lagoon is, in its natural state, a small corner of paradise that attracts tourists from around the world. Unfortunately, this is at the expense of the place, which is crowded with people, every day, from March to November.
If you’ve never been to Malta before, you should know that this is a very “rough” archipelago, very rocky. There are few sandy beaches, but many pebbles and rocks. During the summer, the arid climate makes the vegetation rare.
The island of Comino, where the Blue Lagoon is located, is no exception to the rule. In addition to being very small – it only counts three inhabitants – this island is almost devoid of vegetation. You will only find dust, stones and shrubs. Not optimal for sunbathing.
There is indeed a sandy beach at the Blue Lagoon, but it is tiny and barely accommodates around thirty sunbeds, all of which are taken by storm by the first tourists. So you understand why spending the afternoon in Comino can be less than ideal : you have to sit as best as you can on the ground, between pebbles and pieces of broken glass. Then, if you fancy a swim, you have to walk through this barefoot, then go down some big rocks, to finally be able to swim in Malta’s Blue Lagoon.
Some people even spread their towel over the burning asphalt of the pier, right where the boats are moored. Arriving tourists must slalom between the lying bodies.
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I guess that the image I just painted makes you want to go everywhere but to the Blue Lagoon, and you’re even wondering if these vacations in Malta are really a good idea. Let me tell you : it would be a shame to miss the beauty of the Blue Lagoon. Because it is possible to enjoy it without the hordes of tourists.
How to enjoy Malta’s Blue Lagoon without the crowd ?
The solution ? Come early ! It’s silly, but it’s as simple as that. In the morning, around 9 am, the Blue Lagoon is almost deserted. Not to the point of being able to swim there in your birthday suit, but enough to enjoy the place serenely. The waves of tourists arrive around noon, and this won’t stop all afternoon.
The advice I give to anyone who asks is to arrive as soon as possible. Ideally, around 8 am, so you can leave around 11 am.
I have a second piece of advice I can give you : many people come to Comino only for the Blue Lagoon, and don’t take the time to explore the island more. This is great news for you ! This means that you will be able to find gorgeous, quiet coves, with crystal clear water. Admittedly, the colour of the water will be less spectacular than at the Blue Lagoon, but it will still be magnificent.
For example, if you don’t want to walk too much, take the path that goes up to the left as soon as you arrive on Comino. After a few hundred meters, you can go down towards big rocks which lead to a small quiet cove.
Continuing your way further, you will discover the bays of San Niklaw and Santa Maria, only known to locals and regulars.
Another solution to enjoy Malta’s Blue Lagoon without the crowd : rent a small boat for a few hours. It’s a budget, but it’s absolutely magical. It’s very easy to go around Comino and drop anchor in beautiful bays. Did you know that Comino has a second lagoon ? The Crystal Lagoon, located south of the Blue Lagoon. If I’m not mistaken, I believe it’s only accessible by boat.
How to get to Comino ?
From Malta :
You will find water taxis to go to the Blue Lagoon and back. You can usually find them on Cirkewwa pier, where the Gozo ferry is located. Round trip costs around 10€ per person.
If you plan to go early in the morning, it’s best to book in advance to ensure that a boat will be operational at this time. If you search for “boat to Comino Blue Lagoon” on Google, you will find several companies that offer this service. On site, you will also find smaller boats owned by family-run businesses.
Note : there is no public ferry service to go to the island of Comino (yet). You have to use private companies.
From Gozo :
You can reach Comino very easily from Mgarr harbour, or from Hondoq bay, located in Qala. Several small boats await you to take you there, in less than five minutes. From Hondoq Bay, I particularly recommend the company JoyRide Watersports. The prices are the same : around 10€ for a round trip.
If your holiday rental or hotel is far from Mgarr or Qala, don’t worry : most water sport companies can take you to Comino. But if you are staying north of Gozo, the boat trip will be longer to reach the Blue Lagoon. As a result, the ticket price will certainly be more expensive. I don’t have a particular company to recommend, but Google can help you with that.